A Visit to Bangkok Racecourse and departure Mumbai.Sunday/Monday(25/26 -12-2005)

Tall Christmas tree outside " Siam Centre Plaza" ,the largest shopping mall in Bangkok

 

On Saturday(24-12-2005) i had returned from my days tour of "Pattaya City", back to room no 562 in "Burapa hotel".It was Christmas Eve and the presence of a festive Christmas atmosphere was absolutely absent in Bangkok city, being a total "Buddhist Country".In my "walkathon" tours across the length and breadth of Bangkok city since Monday(19-12-2005), the day that i arrived from Hong Kong i have just spotted a single "Anglican Church" an indicator of the total absence of Christianity as a religion in this part of the globe.Woke up early on Sunday(25-12-2005) and had a local Thai "Dim-Sum" breakfast, a bowl of soup with various non-veg contents and a bowl of rice costing a total of 40 Baht.Began my walkathon city tour by first visiting the "Baiyoke Tower-2", the tallest building in Bangkok and also one of the World's ten tallest buildings in 2005.Surprisingly, at the basement shopping centre of one of the World's costliest and tallest building were "Hawker shops" akin to Mumbai's "Fashion street" selling cheap clothing and not "Designer Brands" as is normally the case in such posh and plush localities.Processed my "Photograph negatives" at "Makkason Photo Studio" just opposite to Indra Hotel next to Baiyoke Tower -2.Photography was one of the luxuries that i spent money, especially in the era of "Roll Photography" where the cost of "Photo reels", photo developing and printing were prohibitively expensive, a real luxury.A "Professional Photographer" if not in the "High-Income bracket" would be on "Poverty Income" akin to artists or unemployed actors. Hence, as a "Hobbyist Photographer" without a "Photography profession" an average estimation of expenditure on this costly hobby can be estimated through the numerous albums stored in my house.Photography is a hobby i must have inherited from my dad who did possess a variety of cameras during his younger years, his "Black & White" photo album capturing a time and era that is today history.

A " Moray eel " at Siam Ocean World Aquarium. Siam Ocean World is the largest aquarium in South East Asia .Hundreds of different fish species are on display.

Proceeded to "Siam Centre Plaza", a tourist and shopping plaza which had a huge decorated artificial Christmas tree near its entrance. Visited the "Siam Ocean world" which had just opened a few day's ago on Friday(9/12/ 2005) and after paying a entrance ticket of 550 Baht(Rs 600 approx) entered the largest aquarium complex in South East Asia. A beautiful indoor sea and fresh water aquarium whose main criteria is to provide education as well as visual entertainment of live fish species to visitors.

"Bangkok Royal Turf Race-course".

There were hardly any tourists inside the race-course and it was dirty, badly maintained with hawker shops selling eatables and soft-drinks.Racing commentary was in "Thai Language" and i could follow the races only due to the horses numbers which was in English, besides, the horses run in "Anti-Clockwise direction" akin to American Racetracks, only the horse-racing is not of "American Standards".

Punters and Spectators inside Bangkok Racecourse.

There is no "Paddock" in the race-course for parading the "race-horses" as is the International format in race-courses throughout the World, instead, the horses are paraded in a single file in front of the "Grandstand" akin to "Greyhound racing" just prior to a race. Another peculiarity of "Horse-racing" in Bangkok is that after loading all the horses into the "STARTING GATE", the horses are kept inside for approx 10 to 15 mins unlike in India or all over the World where the race starts as soon as the last horse is loaded into the "STARTING GATE" stall.Every punter , owner, trainer and jockeys understand the fact that "Race-Horses" are highly strung animals who get nervous and irritated if kept inside the enclosed starting gates for too long.Hence,this strange "Thai Custom" of conducting horse-racing baffles me, besides, i couldn't understand the commentary as it was in "Thai" nor were there any English speaking local punters to consult at the race-course.

Horses paraded before the start of races in front of Grandstand.

I bet on "Nos 1", the favourite in the 3rd race for a "Place" and it placed 2nd giving me a dividend of 11 Baht on a 10 Baht bet.Horse-racing tragedy occurred in the 4th race where horse nos 2 broke its left front foot ankle, the ankle dangling like a loose piece of twig, a pathetic sight of a magnificent beast.

"Race-Horses"- Live on the race-tracks and at times die on the racetracks.Euthanization of a "Race-Horse" in Bangkok Race-course

Bizarrely, instead of euthanizing the horse by shooting or directly injecting it with a lethal dose the poor beast was kept alive for approx 1/2 hour with blood samples being removed while it was alive, its syce handling the horse which strangely didn't show any signs of pain or fear.Later it gradually fell to the ground after a final dosage of lethal injection, an unforgettable pathetic sight, reminding me of the "Great Secret" tragedy at the Pune Derby races during my racing career hobby as a punter.

Seafarer/Blogger/Traveller Rudolph.A.Furtado at Bangkok Racecourse

After an unforgettable day at the "Bangkok Race-Course" i went to the Ratchadamnoen stadium to witness "Thai Boxing" but the ticket admission rates gave a "technical knockout" to my "Backpackers budget", the tickets being in the range of 2000 to 3000 Baht(Rs 2600 to Rs 3500 approx), besides, the commentary was in "Thai language".I did an about-turn from the "Ratchadamnoen Stadium" and made my way towards "Dusit Zoo" located outside the Royal Plaza and Bangkok's oldest zoo.The "Dusit Zoo's" upkeep was similar to Mumbai's "Veermata Jeejabai Bhosle Udyan(Victoria Garden)", only difference is that it had a larger species of wild-life and birds.Compared to Bangkok's latest open air zoo of International standards,"Safari World", this zoo looked pathetic and shabby.

Ratchadamnoen stadium in Bangkok  for  "Thai Boxing"

Strolled around the precincts of the Dusit zoo, reminiscing my days of strolling around Victoria gardens in the 1970's as a teenager,the zoo being just walking distance from my home and a "Second Home" in Mumbai ,learning and observing the rudiments of nature and wildlife behavior.Towards the evening on inquiries about some exciting "Adda's(hindi slang for "Hangout joints")" with local Thai's through my guide maps and literature i was told to visit the "Banglampoo locality" of Bangkok, a hideout of foreign tourists and backpacker's.The festive "Christmas atmosphere" was in full swing when i reached Banglampoo locality with the help of a "Tuk-Tuk(Autorickshaw)", the street resembling Hong Kong's "Chungking" locality, an amalgamation of foreign tourists from various county's, including me from India.

Bangkok's World famous street food.

There were roadside eateries and revelers dancing to the tune of "RAVE MUSIC" played on loudspeakers near the eateries and beer pubs.Banglampoo is a cheap tourist residential locality in Bangkok akin to Colaba in Mumbai and the tourists were "High" on booze as well as other substances and i parked myself near a pub/eatery ordering cocktail drinks and listening to "Rave Music".A Eurasian Canadian man in his sixties picked up a conversation with me and i was surprised at his fluency in "Hindi Language" and astonished at knowing that he acted in some "Firang roles" as an extra in some Kamal Hassan film when on tour in India.He sported a complex configuration of tattoo's which consisted of "Mother Teresa","Che Guevera" and "Mahatma Gandhi" besides having "shoulder length" Willy Nelson type hairstyle.Wonder how Hollywood missed him in their auditions for the film Industry? There was continuous dancing on the streets and the crowd was a combination of back-packers, tourists and locals, something to be experienced.Honestly, "Back-Packing" although risky, is the only way to study and understand the culture and way of living in any Country, city or town compared to "Guided Packaged Tours" or "5-Star executive business travels".Had a late night dinner at "Pannee Guest house" in Banglampoo consisting of roasted Thai Fish and fried rice along with "Singha beer",Bangkok's popular local beer.Left Banglampoo locality at approx 2330 hrs, happily tipsy on conversations,rave music, dance, beer and local food.Caught a "Tuk-Tuk" and reached "Burapa Hotel", my last day in Bangkok as i was to depart on Monday(26/12/2005) to Mumbai .

Relishing  my last Bangkok food of "Mussels and Squid " along with  Singa Beer  near my home away home residence of "BURAPPA HOTEL" before boarding the plane to Mumbai in India.

Got up early on Monday morning and as usual went for a morning walk close to Burapa hotel near the local bazaars with a major problem being not able to either understand or speak Thai language.Strangely. although Bangkok and Thailand receive a lot of tourists very few local Thai's speak or understand English language, the common link language of the World.During my shipping employment i had toured Korea and Japan, country's where English is hardly spoken and yet managed my way alone in these city's ,even traveling by public transport as the "Sign Boards" were usually also in English and most of the locals could guide a visitor.Later in the morning i visited the "GRAND PALACE", the huge palace complex resembling the "Mysore Palace" in India.The Grand Palace has its entire walls depicting the "Ramayana" and the triumph of good over evil.Dress code was important and visitors with "Shorts" or "revealing dresses" were not allowed inside the "Palace Complex".The most important attraction of the "Grand Palace" is the "Emerald Buddha", one of the Country's most religious sites.Visitors are allowed into the "Emerald Buddha palace temple", but, as mentioned have to observe certain norms and etiquette.After visiting the entire "Grand Palace" and its Pagoda's i realized that Bangkok is a city of unexplainable paradoxes where devout religious and non-violence monks survive in the same city that also is home to one of the Word's largest "Pornographic and Fire arms" Industry.Returned to my hotel in the afternoon from the "Grand Palace" and after some rest and a shower ,checked out my luggage at 1430hrs depositing it at the hotel "Check-in/out Counter" to avoid paying extra charges since i was leaving in the evening.Proceeded towards "China Town" another quaint locality of Bangkok housing cheap garment, jewelery and eatery shops.Visited "Old Siam shopping centre", a huge mall with a bit of the "Old world Charm" unlike most modern shopping malls.On my return to "Burapa hotel" had dinner at a roadside cafeteria,consisting of "Mussle and squid" along with "Singa Beer". Bangkok has a lot of "7/11 shops" in various localities which are open 24 hrs and have all grocery products including alcoholic beverages. Arrived at my hotel, collected the luggage, boarded a taxi at 2030 hrs to "Bangkok Airport" arriving early at the airport. Checked into the airport terminal at 2200 hrs and after the normal custom departure formalities entered the "Duty Free lounge", window-shopping various products. Strangely, observed some liquor brands like "Johnny Walker Black Label" costing 999 Baht along with a free complimentary "T-Shirt" at the "7/11 shop" in Bangkok city much cheaper than at the "Duty Free Shop" which cost 1020 Baht without any free complementaries! Finally purchased "2 Chivas Regal" whisky bottles along with a "Johnny walker Red Label" getting free complementaries of a "Chivas Regal Carry Bag" and a lottery contest form for the "World Cup cricket Match".Spent the last of my "Thai Baht Currency" at the departure lounge restaurant, relishing a giant mug of cold drought beer. Later, boarded the "Cathay Pacific aircraft" and reached Mumbai at 0336 hrs on Tuesday(27-12-2005), checking out through "Customs" and reaching my home in Vaibhav apartments. Thus a memorable, adventurous and "Money Strenuous" solo backpackers tour of Hong Kong and Bangkok had come to an end, with just memories and experience to cherish and record for posterior.

"Safari World"- Bangkok.Friday(23-12-2005)

"Sea lion and Dolphin show" at Marine Park of Safari World.

Booked a "Package tour" to "Safari World" in Bangkok and was picked up by driver/tour guide Mr Na Long from my hotel with an Indian family also in the tour bus, a total of 5 tourists and the journey being about 1 1/2 hrs..

At the POLAR BEAR" Enclosure in "Safari Park  " of Safari World ."Artificial Ice" created in a rainforest tropical  climatic country.

The "Safari World " consists of two parks named "Safari Park" and "Marine World" ."Safari World"  is privately owned by "Safari World Public Ltd" and is the first and only company to be listed on the Stock exchange of Thailand. The safari park was akin to a small national park, totally recreating the "African Savannah grasslands" in this park with its natural wildlife."Marine Park" is the park where various animal and bird shows from various parts of the World are displayed. Seven shows take place daily at different times.The shows are 1) Dolphin show 2) Spy War show 3) Orangutan Boxing show 4) Bird Show 5) Cowboy Stunt Show 6) Elephant and sea lion show. When you enter the safari park make sure to check the day's agenda of animal/bird shows.

A " Great Indian Hornbill" performing at the bird show in Marine  Park of Safari World.

In the eight kilometer enclosed "Safari Park" which is the largest portion of "Safari World" its a 50 minutes drive for tourists in enclosed vans  viewing   a assorted collection of Rhinoceros, zebra's, antelopes , giraffes and wildebeest herds roaming  freely in this small natural reserve with tourists a identical copy of the  "Wild-life Savannah " jungles of Africa.Asian herbivores were also included among the herds of African habitat ungulates.

A beautiful flock of Swans in Marine Park of Safari World.

A separate enclosure housed a pride of lions while another housed tigers, akin to a dog kennel or a cattery. The zoo officials seem successful in the captive breeding of tigers as a pair of cubs were displayed for tourist photographs, a splendid business and i posed with one of the "Tiger Cubs", a photograph memory for posterity. Although helping wild-life conservation, these domesticated pet tigers could never be released into the wild forests and would be confined to zoological parks. The "Safari World" complex also had an excellent collection of both aquatic as well as land birds with a flock of beautiful Macaws reminding me of "Jurong Bird Park" in Singapore.

Barring the "Circus Ring Act" never ever in my life saw these many tigers in one location as in the "Safari Park" of Safari World.

A unbelievable herd of "Masai Giraffe" in the Africa Savannah plains enclosure of  "Safari Park".

                                                                                                                                                                   The "Safari World" is open between 0900 hrs to 1600 hrs and also has a "James bond espionage entertainment show" complete with a short "Spy skit" and "shooting fireworks" in its "Marine World" section.

" DOLPHIN SHOW " at  "Marine Park" of "Safari World".

Watched the  Dolphin and Sea-lion show was conducted in "Marine Park" of Safari World  akin to "Ocean Park" in Hongkong as also a bird show. Ultimately, Hong Kong seems to be the "Role Model" of most of the "Far-East country's" and Bangkok has really "Leap frogged" from being known as a cheap World "Sex paradise" to becoming an exotic tourist destination with a variety of assorted tourist attractions and leisure's on display at a relatively cheap cost ."SAFARI WORLD" is a mandatory tourist visit for anyone visiting Bangkok even if not fond of wild-life .

Wednesday(21/12/2005) :- A exploration of Bangkok's floating market and Samphran Elephant ground and zoo.

Buddhist Pagoda.

In Bangkok i was residing at the "Burapa Hotel" situated in downtown Bangkok at 160/14 Charooenkrug road, Bangkok-10200, one of the popular and reasonably priced hotels, popular with Indian tourists. I was accomodated into room Nos 562 at a daily cost of 550Baht(1Us$= 39 Baht approx @2005 rates), a large spacious airconditioned room, decent and reasonably priced.I had booked for a "Packaged tour" to Pattaya at the hotel reception , a convenient and cheap form of touring Thailand as local package tours are conducted by numerous travel agencies and at very competitive rates.Surprising, although Thailand's tourist economy is based more on "English speaking" tourists, yet, the common local thai population rarely speak or understand much of english, hence, travelling alone to remote parts of the country is dangerous as well as confusing."Local "Packaged Tours" are the safest and most convenient means of touring Thailand and this was precisely my itinerary once i reached Bangkok and checked into my hotel.All hotels in Bangkok have arrangements with local tour operators for conducting "Package Tours" and the same can be booked at the hotel reception counter on arrival to avoid disappointments as most of these tours get fully booked during peak tourist season.The World Media has mostly depicted Bangkok for its cheap "SEX TOURISM" in the past and in the 21st century i was surprised to note the tremedous change in the Bangkok tourist scenario with the once dominating "Sex Industry" playing a minor role compared to other travel leisures like "adventure sports","Water sports" and exotic Wild-life zoological parks". I am writing from personal experience having first visited the port of Bangkok in 1985 on a ship during my employment as a "Marine engineer" when this port was considered a "Sex Haven" for sailors with literally every seamen having a "Bangkok port wife"! I vividly remember visiting a "Nightclub" in 1985 a few kilometres from the ships wharf which had live music and dancing the night to glory, celebrating my 25th birthday at an age where work and pleasure were a part of shipboard living .My visit to Thailand as a private "backpacker tourist" in 2005 gave me a genuine authentic image of Bangkok as i toured the entire city at my own personal leisure unlike during my "Ship Voyages" when port stay time was at a premium, besides at the age of 25, the "male hormones" of a lonely sailor are in search of mostly sexual entertainment with a little sightseeing and shopping whenever possible and Bangkok was a sex paradise.

ELEPHANT SHOW :-"Mock Elephant Battle" enactment at "Samphran Elephant Ground" .(Wednesday 21-12-2005)

On Wednesday(21-12-2005), got up early as usual in my hotel and jotted my daily travel log, a writing wanderlust hobby since my early years, an inherent tendency for writing.

At the "DAMNOEON SADUAK FLOATING MARKET" in Bangkok. There are 5 popular "Floating Markets" in Bangkok  of which the "Damnoeon Saduak" floating market is the oldest and most popular . There is a snake farm within this market which demonstrates "Cobra snake shows" and also a opportunity for tourists to click a photo with a python.

I had booked a "Package tour" for sightseeing Bangkok and the "Toyota mini van" picked me up from the hotel at approx 0715hrs, the tour guide being a young woman who introduced herself as "Miss Thailand".The tour group consisted of a Indian and Malaysian couple, a multicultural crowd and myself, with our first stop being the "Damnoeon Saduak Floating Market" after a drive of approx 1 1/2 hr from the city. Bangkok has been nick-named as the "Venice of the East" and a visit to this beautiful scenic floating bazaar proves the same, a entire floating market with canoe boats displaying their wares.There are 5 popular floating markets in Bangkok of which the Damnoen Saduak is the oldest and most popular among tourists.

Bangkok's World famous "DAMNOEON SADUAK FLOATING MARKET".(Wednesday 21-12-2005)

                                                                                                                                                                      I purchased a local Thai hat and a wooden carving and as usual, busy clicking on my "Nikon RF" auto-focus roll camera, photography being my luxury passion, having still not converted to the cheaper and convenient "Digital camera" of the 21st century.

" COBRA SHOW" at Damnoeon  Saduak Floating  market.

 A Close-up view of the "King Cobra" in its enclosure.

World Famous "COBRA CIRCUS" at the Damnoeon Saduak floating market in Bangkok. Death defying handling of one of the World's most venomous snakes.

                                                                                                                                                               After a short stay at the "Floating Market" we next visited a "Cobra show" at a "Snake Farm" situated within Damnoen Saduak floating market vicinity. Milking of "Cobra Venom" was demonstrated, something which i had seen in Madras(India) at the "Crocdile Snake Park" run by World renowned Herpetologist Mr Romulus Whittaker with the help of the local "Irula Tribes".In Madras, the snakes are "milked" commercially and later released into the forests, a continuous cycle of venom harvesting benefiting the local "Irula tribes" as well as the "Pharmaceutical Industry".

Entrance to the "SNAKE SHOW".

In Bangkok the demonstration of a human snake-handler handling a venomous cobra was the major attraction as these snakes have their "venom Gland" intact" unlike most "snake shows" where either the snake's mouth is stitched shut or the snakes "De-fanged".Proof was shown as seen in the photograph of   this same cobra being  milked prior to the "human- snake" demonstration, although the "Venom" could be less potent after "Milking". A few years later , I did see an article on "National Geographic" where a local Thai snake handler died due to "Venom poisoning" while demonstrating to tourists in Bangkok, hazards of the profession. Photographed myself with a python and also took a few photo's of a giant king cobra and later we made our next tour stop at the "Samphran Elephant ground, crocodile farm and zoo" which was established by Mr Pichai.Chaimongkoltrakul and opened to the public on Sunday(24/3/1985). .I have been to numerous zoo's in India as well as other Asian Country's and the "Samphran Park " has its uniqueness in the form of demonstrating the efforts of wild-life conservation as well as entertaining humans .

"ELEPHANT FOOTBALL" :- Superstar footballer David.Beckham would definitely have been impressed had he watched this "Elephant Football Match".

There was an "Elephant Show" organized in front of a grandstand, depicting the past cultural history and warfare of Thailand, famous, as the land of "White elephants". Tourists were freely allowed to take photographs with the elephants after the "Elephant show" which was performed at select time intervals, a massive attraction amongst the tourists.

This sight can be seen only in Bangkok. A tourist photo-shoot with a pair of full grown tigers at the "Samphran Elephant ground and zoo". Tourists literally queue to have a photo-shoot with these pair of tigers.

A pair of full grown tame tigers in "Dog-chains" were kept at the entrance to the park and most tourists photographed themselves with these pair of tigers, memento's that could prove to be collectors items as the inevitable extinction of the tiger in the wild seems inevitable, especially in its homeland in India.As a wild-life conservationist i felt sad at seeing these majestic wild beasts being treated like "Pet Dogs or exotic cats ", but, ultimately the survival of these beasts might be in "Zoological parks " around the World, leading a totally artificial life from the land of their birth,"THE NATURAL WILD FORESTS".Next , attended the "Crocodile Show" at the same park and to me it seemed a "Russian Roulette" game between the human handler and the crocodile to the amusement of the tourists.

"BELIEVE IT OR NOT":- The Crocodile show.

                                                                                                                                                                  The local Thai human handler would put his entire hand or head into the open crocodiles mouth, cheating death or serious injury as crocodiles are not considered intelligent reptiles for circus training , hence, a mystery and trade secret as to the method of demonstrating these unique "Death Defying" stunts.

A crocodile has an immense "Bite compressive strength" and hence if the crocodile just leisurely shuts it wide jaws then it would either be a  decapitation of the human handler's head or hand.I have never in my life seen this particular "Crocodile/Human" stunt ever demonstrated in any circus or zoological park and hence Thailands "Samphran Park" has this unique distinction of holding the "Trade Secret" of the wild crocodile shows.Our next visit was to the "Rose Garden", a huge garden complex with a beautiful pond and were given a demonstration of Thai wood carving manufacture, later visiting the auditorium where a demonstration of "Thai boxing" and local "Thai dance " and culture.

Wood carving demonstration and sale of expensive carvings.

                                                                                                                                                                 Our last visit was to the "gems & Jewellery" shop, a common routine in all "Bangkok Packaged Tours", the last stop before departure to hotel.The Bangkok tour operators have an excellent network of "Tour operations" akin to "Mumbai's Dabbawalla's", and hence tourist passengers are shuttled from different "tour mini-vans" at certain junctions depending on their personal sightseeing itinerary.From the "gem shop" i was later shuttled into another van and was sent to my hotel.